Archive for the ‘Trailer Hitches’ Category

A Little Trailer Hitch History

Wednesday, January 10th, 2007

As I was looking for a little trailer hitch trivia, I came across a blog (here)
where I found this tidbit:

“My grandfather invented a type of trailer hitch back in 1946 and called it the “Draw-Titeâ€?. He founded a company that, while no longer in the family, is still around today and apparently doing quite well.”

Too bad Grandpa doesn’t still have that little “Draw-Tite” company!

In trying to verify her story, I came across this story:

In the early 1900s, a man named Thomas J. Jacob owned a car dealership in Wausau, Wisconsin. He began making high–quality precision tools in his workshop above the car dealership. His work was good enough that he began marketing those tools through his new Hammer Blow Tool Company. Around 1919, he lost a favorite hunting dog due to an accident involving a poorly-designed trailer hitch. Having some know-how and the passion to make things right, Jacob developed the first drop-forged ball-and-socket trailer hitch, which he named the “Never Lets Goâ€? Bull Dog. He didn’t stop there, but kept inventing new and better trailer hitch parts; soon Hammer Blow was at the top of the trailer industry.

Today, both Bulldog and Draw-Tite hitches are manufactured by Cequent Trailer Products in Mosinee, Wisconsin.

Article – Installing a Trailer Hitch

Friday, December 15th, 2006

So, you’re standing there, in your garage, wanting to tow that new trailer loaded with two beautiful 700 cc sleds, but your hitch is laying there on the concrete, still in the packaging it came in, and you’re scratching your head, wondering what in the world you were thinking when you were so sure you could install it yourself. Well, cowboy, the good news is, you can in fact, install your own trailer hitch, and the better news is, I’m going let you in on the good advice my uncle Dave gave me when I was in your same, sorry position this time last year. And, I’ll let you in on one more secret: Uncle Dave isn’t so much entertaining as he is thorough and detail oriented, so knuckle down, read this whole article, and do things right, so you, and then your trailer make it to your destination at about the same time, and in that order.

Before you start to install your trailer hitch, Uncle Dave likes to check a few things off his list. One, make sure you have the correct hitch for your vehicle and the trailer being towed. Two, review the instruction sheet provided with the hitch. Three, check the hitch attachment area of the vehicle. Do not attach a hitch to a vehicle which shows excessive corrosion or damage in the hitch attachment areas. Four, take the appropriate safety precautions. When elevating the vehicle on a hoist or ramp, ensure that the vehicle is properly secured and blocked such that it will not fall or roll off its supports. Five, use the appropriate tools and wear your safety glasses when drilling holes.

Prior to the installation, it is good practice to loosely assemble the hitch, install the drawbar, pin and clip and hold the hitch up into position. This lets you identify any obstructions to the installation, verify the drawbar position on the vehicle and will give you an idea of how the hitch is to be installed. A scissors jack or floor jack can be very useful in holding the hitch up in place. In many cases C-clamps can be used to clamp the hitch to the frame during the installation procedure. In some cases, you might find it necessary to temporarily loosen the exhaust system and/or slightly reposition it to clear the hitch during installation. This is particularly true where an exhaust system has been replaced prior to installing the hitch, as all hitches are designed using vehicle original equipment. Do not forget to reattach any exhaust clamps, hangers, etc. after hitch installation. In a few cases, it may be necessary to adjust the bumper on a vehicle, or the brackets which mount to the bumper, in order to properly install the hitch. Most bumpers are mounted to the bumper brackets using bolts in slots. Find the appropriate bolts and adjust the bumper accordingly.

Wherever possible, hitches are designed to use existing holes. In cases where appropriate holes are not available, holes must be drilled in the frame. Once the hitch is accurately positioned and clamped in place on the vehicle, holes can be drilled in the appropriate places using the holes in the hitch as a guide. In cases where the holes must be drilled without using the hitch as a guide, hole locations can be permanently identified by spraying black paint through the hole locations. Remove the hitch, center punch the hole positions and drill a pilot hole. Follow with the appropriate drill size for the hole required. Drill holes that are either the same size as the bolt or at the most 1/16″ larger. Clearance holes or slots are provided in the hitch for adjustment. When drilling, be extremely careful to avoid drilling into vehicle components which are located behind where the hole is being drilled. Slacken off pressure on the drill just prior to breaking through.

When installing the hitch, be sure to use the reinforcing plates supplied with the hitch where appropriate. These plates reinforce the frame and spread the load to the frame edges. The hitch must have solid metal to metal contact with the vehicle attachment points. Excessive undercoating or weld on the vehicle should be removed. All hardware, with the exception of handle or tab nuts and U-bolts are grade 5 or 8.8 (metric). Tighten all bolts to the torque levels specified in the instructions. When hitch bracket plates are supplied … use them. These plates are designed to spread the load.

Caution: Never modify the hitch in any way. Do not drill holes into the hitch to mount accessories etc. Never cut holes or modify the assembly using a torch. This weakens the metal, produces a ragged hole, and presents an unnecessary fire hazard. Never weld a hitch to the vehicle frame.

Trailer Hitch Classification System

Friday, November 10th, 2006

Trailer hitches are divided into five categories based on the weights they can tow and support. They are rated by Gross Towed Weight (GTW), which includes the weight of the trailer and all cargo. The tongue weight is the weight that rests directly on the trailer hitch. The hitch classes are listed below, along with their weight limits and vehicles that are recommended for each class.

It is very important to note that the rating of the trailer hitch is only part of the equation. You will only be able to tow as much as your vehicle can pull, regardless of the hitch you install. Your suspension, transmission, and braking systems all have an effect on how much you can tow. You should always follow the manufacturer’s recommendation in your owner’s guide when towing any size load.

Class I – Light Duty
Max GTW: 2,000 pounds
Max Tongue Weight: 200 pounds
Recommended for: All Vehicles

Class II – Medium Duty
Max GTW: 3,500 pounds
Max Tongue Weight: 350 pounds
Recommended for: Mid-size cars and larger

Class III – Heavy Duty
Max GTW: 5,000 pounds
Max Tongue Weight: 500 pounds
Recommended for: Mid-size trucks, SUV’s, full size cars and larger

Class IV – Heavy Duty
Max GTW: 7,500 pounds
Max Tongue Weight: 1,000 pounds
Recommended for: Mid-size trucks, SUV’s, full size cars and larger

Class V – Extra-Heavy Duty
Max GTW: 10,000 pounds
Max Tongue Weight: 1,200 pounds
Recommended for: Full-size trucks, vans, and SUV’s

The trailer hitch classes listed above were developed by the Society of Automotive Engineers. More information on their standards can be found at the SAE website, http://www.sae.org/.